California Sangiovese — Reviews and Recommendations

Part 2 in a series

While Sangiovese has been grown in small quantities here for a century, the first commercial release didn't occur till 1989. That was the year I happened to be at the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite National Park for their annual Vintners' Dinner. Perusing the items offered in the gift shop, I found a small and undistinguished selection of California wines, one featuring a representation of the Yosemite cliffs on its label. Another promised to be at least a cut above the others: 1989 Atlas Peak Sangiovese.

I had heard the news of the purchase of substantial vineyard acreage in the hills above the Stags' Leap District in Napa Valley by a partnership between Allied Domecq Wines, USA, and the Marchese Piero Antonori of Chianti fame. I knew that, heretofore, Sangiovese had been planted in various locations throughout the State, but no one seemed confident to offer a commercial bottling. Here, at last, was one. Curiosity and anticipation welled up and I retreated immediately to my room to experience this novelty of a wine.

My experience of Atlas Peak's first Sangiovese release proved memorable. Not only was the wine surprisingly good, it was reasonably priced and raised the promise of a new chapter in California red wine. Other wineries would soon follow suit, and over the course of the next decade wineries offering commercial releases of Sangiovese would grow to nearly a hundred.

We assembled around thirty of California's best Sangioveses and tasted them blind against a top Chianti and Brunello. The results were revealing. Since Atlas Peak Vineyards stands at the head of the pack historically, we will discuss their Sangioveses separately.

THE UNIQUENESS OF ATLAS PEAK VINEYARDS
Almost everything about Atlas Peak is unique. Its location, high above the Stags' Leap District in a hanging valley, qualified it for a separate appellation (AVA). Its soils are volcanic, unlike the soils of the Napa Valley floor. Its elevation provides at once, more exposure to sunlight and cooler temperatures, leading to optimal ripeness with longer hang times. The steep hillside terrain naturally retards the crop yield (Sangiovese lends itself to overcropping in California).

We are happy to report that the current releases of Atlas Peak Sangioveses are the best we have ever tasted from this winery and we recommend them without hesitation.

Atlas Peak 1997 Sangiovese Napa Valley/Atlas Peak; 13.6% alcohol, $16. Clear as a dark ruby gem. Pleasantly bright, easy drinking wine with spicy cherries on the nose and flavors of dried cherry, cranberry, and plum on the palate. A little fuller bodied than many other California Sangioveses, thanks to an infusion of 6% Cabernet and Merlot. Well made, without obvious flaws or stylistic "bagatelles." Leaves the palate with a clean, dry finish without excessive acidity. Unusual polish for a mid-priced California Sangiovese. We have always found this bottling to be one of California's most dependable Sangioveses. Recommended.

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