Second Article in a Series Reviewing Italian Varietals in California
California wineries are creating veritable symphonies with superb quality Barbera fruit, but have been playing to a nearly empty house. Many of the best offerings still fall into the "boutique" category in terms of production (under 1000 cases) and are understandably not widely available. Most consumers have never heard of Barbera and many are indisposed to venture into the unknown.
Barbera is unlikely to become a fad wine, like White Zinfandel, Chardonnay, and Merlot. But as more consumers discover its versatility and agreeable drinking characteristics, they will surely return to it again and again.
Our evaluation of current California Barberas was conducted in a formal setting, with a selection of Italian foods available. A key concern was to authenticate this wine's legendary affinity for food. Fourteen wines were poured, arranged in order of their alcoholic content, which ranged from 11% to 14.5%.
By the end of the tasting it had become clear that California winemakers are pursuing two different styles with this varietal, which we will refer to as an Italian style and a California style. All of the wines poured easily fit into these categories. The Italian styled wines most closely resembled our Piemontese model, 1997 Piero Busso Vigna Majano Barbera d'Alba DOC, 13%, $18.99. They were characterized by moderate alcohol levels, focussed flavors, polish and refinement. The California style Barberas were rich, deeply flavored, seductive and powerful.
CALIFORNIA STYLED BARBERAS
In terms of numerical ratings, the California style wines enjoyed a distinct advantage: There was a lot to notice and enjoy. We were overwhelmed by their rich aromas and viscosity, both in the glass and on the palate. These are wines to be remembered and recounted. Four examples were found to be outstanding:
1998 Sobon Family Vineyards Barbera Amador County, 13.9%, $18
This lovely wine is characterized by spicy black cherry flavors, cinnamon and caramel wrapped up in a smooth drinking, appealing wine.
1998 Boeger Barbera El Dorado County, Estate Bottled, 14.4%
With a retail price of $13.50, this splendid, rich Barbera can be enjoyed often. Attractive, clean drinking, bright, but round and well balanced. This wine is equally at home with substantial foods or to be enjoyed alone. Exceptional value.
1997 Renwood Barbera Amador County, 14.1%, $18
A tour de force among California Barberas. Intense, aromatic, ripe berry and currant flavors mingle with chocolate and spice. Well integrated oak rounds out the flavor spectrum. A superb wine. Several tasters rated it as the top wine of the event.
