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French Terroir — California Microclimates

© Alan Boehmer

Terroir: That special combination of soil composition and climate which provides distinction to a given viticultural region.

Prior to the famous Paris tasting in 1978, in which a California Cabernet Sauvignon was preferred to all the top Bordeaux examples in a blind comparison by French industry professionals, the role of terroir went virtually unquestioned. No one would ever make Cabernet Sauvignon like they make it in Bordeaux, because that particular terroir didn't exist anywhere else.

Throughout the 1980s, academic research played an increasing role in developing our understanding of all things enological and viticultural. We developed the concept of "Degree-Days" - a method of categorizing vineyard sites by quantifying sunlight and temperature. This led to the assignment of California vineyard regions into various zones (I - VII), with the assumption that certain varietals will grow best in certain zones; Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Zone I - II, Cabernet Sauvignon in Zone III, Flame Tokay and French Colombard in Zone V, etc.

But despite the scientific underpinnings of the Zone System and Degree Days, certain vineyard areas seemed to outperform their neighbors who enjoyed the same climatic conditions. It is no longer a secret that the vineyards on the Rutherford Bench produce better Cabernet Sauvignon than their neighbors on the Napa Valley floor; the same is true of the Stags' Leap District across the valley. In Santa Barbara County, fruit grown on the Santa Maria Mesa almost always outperforms that from neighboring vineyards. The Lytton Springs Vineyard in Sonoma County shows no apparent evidence of distinction, yet it's Zinfandel fruit is legendary.

California is beginning to recognize the existence of special terroirs. Often the distinguishing factor is geological. Certain vineyards in El Dorado County, for example, are planted on a volcanic flow; their fruit shows strikingly different characteristics from fruit grown on neighboring granitic soils.

Locals have always known it: That magic viticultural Shangri-la west of US 101 which runs from south to north in the hills west of Paso Robles. Vineyard Drive runs right through the length of the region, providing access to Justin, Tablas Creek, HMR, Adelaida, Peachy Canyon, Nadeau Family Vintners, Norman, Mastantuono, and Pesenti Winery, plus scores of privately owned vineyards.

In 1934 there was only one winery in this region: Pesenti. The Pesenti family planted 45 acres of Zinfandel vines which have now achieved Old Vine status. All the other wineries, save York Mountain, quite a bit to the west, were relative late comers.

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