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Current Directions in California Wine

© Alan Boehmer

Over the course of the past century, the California wine industry has struggled to find its identity. Blessed with incredible potential, greatness was destined to emerge. We enjoyed a full spectrum of favorable soils and climates; superb enological research facilities, and investment capital. But we had no tradition. That was at once a great blessing and in another sense, a curse.

Tradition was the engine which propelled all European winemaking. Over the course of many centuries, winemakers were bound to discover winning ways for their particular conditions; and, indeed, they did. It was not academic research that underlaid the development of the Bordeaux blends; or the sumpuousness of great red Burgundies. It was trial and error, practiced over a very long time.

Appearing on the scene quite late in the development of wine making, California was obligated to try to match European successes. But we took a different approach. We applied the scientific method to all matters enological. This led us to plant and vinify the established "classic" European varietals. So from the inception of the California wine industry to around 1985, all we ever saw on our wine shelves were California versions of those familiar varietals. We played a game that took several forms:

1. Beat the French at their own game. (California Cabernet Sauvignon vs. Bordeaux, etc.)

2. Undersell established European wines. (Offer comparable quality at a better price.)

3. Offer reputable varietal wines (Chardonnay, Merlot, etc.) at affordable prices by blending 75% named varietal with 25% inexpensive bulk wine.

The one game we could never play was the one most commonly played throughout Europe and the Middle East: Make interesting and appealing wines from indigenous fruit. No, we had none of that; so we were stuck with our various forms of oneupsmanship.

The interesting turn of events is that we have pretty much played out our hand at beating Europe at its own game. The result isn't exactly a draw. According to some writers, we may have equalled the French with Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and shown very well with Syrah and Pinot Noir. They beat us with Champagne and Chenin Blanc. So what's next? Do we just keep on trying?

Well, we will certainly do that. But there are changes in the wind. First, we've discovered that the world of wine doesn't begin and end with France. We've discovered Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo - a good start; but there are hundreds, maybe thousands of unsung varietals which could play well on California soil. California vineyard managers have already started experimenting with Teroldego and Fiano. What? Never heard of those? Well, perhaps you will in the coming years.