Lodi Zinfandels
The overall preference in the tasting was the splendid 1997 ROSENBLUM Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Old Vines Maggie's Reserve ($29.99). It was singled out by every taster as the most distinguished example offered and the panel awarded it 91 points. But for half the price ($14.95), the panel chose 1998 ST. AMANT Zinfandel Lodi Mohr-Fry O.V. as the most attractive wine of the event and ordered three cases directly from the winery (209-367-0646) for personal consumption. The St. Amant Zinfandel displayed broader flavors than the Maggie's Reserve, with a little less structure and complexity; nevertheless, the comments included descriptions such as "heavenly, warm, robust, well-finished, rich, deep, serious." It was rated at 91 points also.
Other Lodi Zinfandels showed almost as well. A splendid example from VIGIL VINEYARDS in Calistoga (Mohr-Fry O.V., $18.95) is better distributed than the St. Amant and was rated at 90. The panel characterized it as possessing spicy cherry flavors, warmth, complexity, and a long finish. This wine, along with all the other Lodi appellation Zinfandels, was described as an "easy drinking, richly flavored, friendly" wine.
The SABLE RIDGE (Santa Rosa) 1997 Zinfandel, Lodi, Old Vine, Hensley-Lauchland Vineyard ($20) was first on the docket and immediately raised eyebrows and expectations. This wine was unlike typical California Zinfandels and was rated all over the map. Throwing out the highest and lowest ratings, it still fared very well at 89. Those who liked this wine described "fabulous deep flavors, effusive perfume, caramel, great nose, nutmeg, cinnamon," and were surprised to find such richness in a wine with only moderate alcohol (13.8%).
1998 KENWOOD Zinfandel Lodi Old Vines is sold only to restaurants, but showed all the typical Lodi Zinfandel characteristics. The panel found "rich, clean fruit flavors, soft tannins, smoothness on the palate, and good balance." Oak characteristics were described by several tasters who felt this wine possessed excessive sweetness on the finish. Nevertheless, the wine was awarded 86 points.
Another surprise was the 1998 CAMPUS OAKS Zinfandel, Lodi, Old Vine, Carl J. Schmiedt Vineyard from GNEKOW FAMILY WINERY. This unusual $10 delight was not to everyone's taste but some considered it outstanding. It's a light, claret styled wine, brimming with caramel and blackberry flavors, soft tannins and good balance. While the Woodbridge California Zinfandel is a wine that very few could dislike, the Campus Oaks has enough character to be sought out by those who enjoy its unusual style.
Thrown into the blind mix were
Latest Articles