Second in a Series
Zinfandel is California's favorite son. Unlike the classic French and Italian varietals, whose history in the New World is well charted, the origins and history of Zinfandel remain mysterious to this day.Research at the University of California, Davis, has uncovered clear genetic links to two European grapes: Italy's 'Primitivo' and Croatia's 'Plavac Mali'; but wines produced from these grapes bear only a passing resemblance to California Zinfandel. It seems that Zinfandel, regardless of its origins, is truly a California phenomenon.
Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and dozens of other European varietals which first entered California at the port of San Francisco in the mid-nineteenth century, Zinfandel appears to have come to us by way of a New York nursery in the early part of the nineteenth century. It's virtues were immediatly apparent: prolific producer of large clusters, up to three flowering cycles per season, and juice capable of reliably producing very good wine. It is no wonder that this varietal was esteemed above all others in California for red table wine in the nineteenth century. Zinfandel vineyards sprang up in Sonoma and Napa Counties, in the Sierra Foothills, in the Central Coast, throughout the Central Valley ...and in Lodi.
There are more old, head pruned Zinfandel vineyards in Lodi today than in any other region of California. Since Lodi had been upstaged by other regions until late in the 1990s, few consumers had even heard of Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel. Worse, the distinguished fruit of most of these fine, old vineyards was sold to large wineries, to be blended with fruit of lesser quality.
Today, Lodi is undergoing a Renaissance. Owners of old vine (O.V.) vineyards are opening their own family wineries and releasing wines of exceptional distinction under the relatively new (1986) Lodi appellation. Large wineries such as Oak Ridge and Woodbridge (Robert Mondavi) are releasing boutique bottlings of O.V. Zinfandel alongside their familiar commercial offerings. And that's not all. Established wineries from Santa Rosa to Santa Maria are now offering Lodi appellation O.V. Zinfandels, as did the Ridge Winery in the 1960s.
We formed a tasting panel in San Luis Obispo to evaluate some of these new offerings. The blind tasting included ten Lodi Zinfandels and six representative examples from other regions: Sonoma Valley, Dry Creek, Russian River, Sierra Foothills and Central Coast. We are pleased to offer some impressions:
One of the biggest surprises of the event was the widely available WOODBRIDGE Zinfandel California ($6.50). Despite its California appellation, this wine is 86% Lodi Zinfandel. It's balanced, very fruity, possessing a superior bouquet, and is made in a medium light style which many consumers will find very appealing. The panel rated this wine at 86 and designated it as "a wine to buy."
