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A South African Challenge

© Alan Boehmer

California vs. South Africa

No one questions California's leadership in viticulture and enology over the course of the past half century. But does that mean that other countries and regions are making wines that resemble our own? The answer is both yes and no.

The fact that certain viticultural and winemaking techniques are becoming internationally standardized is blurring the distinctions between regional products, to be sure. This has become a source of national debate in Spain and Italy, where winemakers and government agencies have set down strict appellation codes designed to protect wines made in certain traditional styles, such as Rioja and Chianti.

Are regional styles gradually being assumed into the great international melting pot? Will it be increasingly difficult to tell the difference between an Argentinean Merlot and an Italian? Between a New Zealand Chardonnay and a California?

Some things can't be changed. The French have said so all along, with grand notions of "terroir." The idea that a specific vineyard site can infuse the resulting wine with its own unique characteristics can be seen in single vineyard wines, when not blurred by aggressive winemaking procedures.

Can we find characteristics that distinguish California wines in general from those of other regions? That was one of the goals of a recent blind tasting of South African and California wines in San Luis Obispo, California. The results were fascinating, so we're passing them on to you.

THE LINEUP The tasters were offered a "welcome wine" to sip during the introduction of the presentation. A 1998 Chenin Blanc from Cape Indaba ($6.53) was chosen. The group unanimously concluded that no California Chenin Blanc could compete with this wine at its price point.

FIRST FLIGHT: SAUVIGNON BLANC The two wines presented could not have been more different: a stainless-steel fermented Sauvignon from Neil Ellis (Stellenbosch) vs. a barrel-fermented example from Babcock (Santa Ynez Valley). The SA (South African) wine screamed varietal characteristics; herbal, gooseberry, smoke. The Babcock was balanced to perfection, with no particularly assertive characteristics. The use of oak gave the wine an almost Chardonnay-like roundness. The tasters immediately identified it as a California product and most preferred it, even at nearly twice the price. Lovers of herbal Sauvignons would have favored the Ellis.

SECOND FLIGHT: CHARDONNAY A mainline California Chardonnay (Beringer Napa Valley, $12.99) was chosen to be compared to one of SA's best; Mulderbosch (Stellenbosch, $26). Again, the group had little difficulty identifying the Beringer because of its strong oak influence, roundness, and sweet finish. Most strongly preferred the leaner, more varietally true Mulderbosch.

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