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Californians Size Up the Pacific Northwest

© Alan Boehmer

Since the 1970s, wineries of the Pacific Northwest have attempted to exploit the potential for vitis vinifera on its native soil. One would not be naturally optimistic about the region, considering that the coastal regions are typically too cold, wet, and foggy for serious viticulture; and the region east of the Cascades is dry and desert-like. One writer likens portions of the Columbia River Valley to the moon. So why even try?

The history of California is all about water. Our state, too, was endowed with vast regions of inhospitable desert. But leave it to those clever Californians! They diverted the Colorado River westward and turned hundreds of square miles into the fertile Imperial Valley. They dammed the rushing torrents of the Sierra Nevada and turned five hundred miles of dry sand into one of America's largest and most productive agricultural regions, complete with the world's largest winery.

If California could do it, why not Washington State? And to sweeten the pot, the Northwest has several special advantages:

1. The volcanic soils which dominate the Columbia Valley are particularly suited to premium winegrapes.

2. There is abundant water available from the Columbia River to transform the arid region into vineyards and farmland.

3. Because of it's northerly location, the Columbia Valley receives as much as three hours more sunshine each day of the growing season than Napa Valley, leading to longer hang times.

4. The vineyard regions of Washington State lie approximately at the same latitude as Bordeaux, France.

So how are Northwest wineries doing these days? A group of California wine lovers decided to find out. With help from Suite 101.com's Pacific Northwest Wine editor, Eric Cook, a tasting was assembled which would introduce the group to some of the regions most notable products.

SAUVIGNON BLANC and SEMILLON
We were delighted with the splendid Fumé Blanc from Facelli (10.29) and thought it at least the equal of similarly priced California Sauvignons. The Semillon from Columbia Winery (8.59) had been barrel fermented and aged on Chardonnay lees. We thought this mode of vinification added interesting layers at the expense of varietal character. The wine was round and fat, due to partial M/L. We tasted these wines with a creamy pasta with green peas and green beans.

CHARDONNAY We fully expected disappointment. We compared a Chardonnay from L'Ecole No. 41 (15.99) said to be made in a Burgundian style with one more typical of our top California products, Woodward Canyon (29.99). To our delight, we found the L'Ecole No. 41 superior to anything from California at that price. Excellent balance, lovely varietal character, clean drinking. The Woodward Canyon, being more like California Chardonnay, failed to impress at $30 a bottle, although we thought it thoroughly delicious and well-crafted. These wines perfectly complemented a cream of mushroom and wild rice soup.