Wine Touring in the Sierra Foothills — Part 2


© Alan Boehmer

Two weeks ago we reported on the Sierra Foothills region in general, recounting its remarkable history and noting its proximity to other well-established California wine regions in terms of climate. This article will offer specific recommendations for those who plan to tour this beautiful and engaging region.

The Sierra Foothills region comprises (south to north) Mariposa, Calaveras, Tuolomne, Amador, El Dorado, and Nevada Counties. This area is particularly beautiful in the Spring, quite warm (and dry) in the Summer. The lower elevations are largely in the chapparal and oak belt; the higher elevations are in the pine belt and pleasant even in summertime.

An indispensible resource for those touring the Sierra Foothills is the Sierra Foothills Vine Times quarterly newspaper. Here you will find advertisements, announcements, and articles relating to many of the region's wineries, along with useful maps.

If you are coming from the south, consider taking a little longer and travelling up Highway 49 instead of the more common route, Interstate 5. Highway 49 will take you through all of the Sierra wine areas and reward you with interesting scenery all the way. You can start your Highway 49 tour at Oakhurst, just 40 minutes northeast of Fresno. While in Oakhurst, and if you are travelling in style, you might call ahead and make a reservation at the famous European-styled Elderberry House, one of the highest rated restaurants in the entire State.

Wineries in the southern Sierra Foothills region are quaint and homespun. You'll get a taste of family winemaking at Silver Fox (209-966-4800) and Butterfly Creek (wine@yosemite.net). Call ahead and you'll receive a very personal experience. Southern wineries focus mostly on traditional varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Zinfandel. Maldavino Vineyards (209-754-1002) in Calaveras County offers a perfectly respectable example of wine made from the historic Mission grape - the only viable example we know.

While a broad quality spectrum may be found in the products of the Sierra Foothills region, it is easy to find excellent value, even in the finest wines. This may be due, in part, to the fact that most Sierra wineries are small, family owned businesses which sell mainly to an established customer base or through their tasting rooms. The effects of the larger wine industry players have so far taken a secondary role, although several large Napa and Sonoma wineries have been sourcing Zinfandel and Barbera from this region for many years.

Sierra winemaking comes into sharpest focus in the wines of Amador and El Dorado Counties. Here you will encounter the cutting edge of the Sierra Foothills appellation. In addition to splendid old vine Zinfandel, you will find excellent examples of Italian and Rhone varietals - some of the best in the State. Look for supple and balanced Sangioveses, deep and flavorful Barberas, rich and complex Syrahs.

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