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The wonderful complexity, enhanced nose, and velvety texture of older wines has been a "cause celebre" in these columns. Doubtless, some readers have taken seriously our advice of holding Cabernet Sauvignons for five to ten years before drinking, and have determined to age all their red Bordeaux, Barolo, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Chianti Classico, so to enjoy them at their peak of flavor, aroma, and interest.
But suppose your wine merchant happens to have all these wines in older vintages? That is the subject of this article. In past discussions of these matters, we have been careful to underscore the importance of proper cellaring. Our standard recommendation has been 55° constant temperature. We've avoided matters of humidity and vibration, as the jury is still out and conventional wisdom is often flawed. So you don't have the capacity to properly cellar wines over a long period of time? Then the option of buying them already aged becomes attractive. Unfortunately, you had best prepare yourself for many disappointments. Some wholesalers and retailers are assiduous about temperature control. If we knew who they were, we would publish a list! The sad fact, however, is that once a wine leaves its point of origin, it passes through many hands, not all scrupulous about matters of temperature control. In the case of young wines, more latitude exists. If current release wines were routinely damaged in shipping, we would surely not enjoy the broad spectrum of international wines which are seen in almost every retail outlet. As wines grow old, they become increasingly sensitive to temperature. Almost all wines are purchased at their point of origin in current release. So if you are buying a wine that is older than the current release, someone has stored it under conditions you probably can never know. If that person happens to be your retailer, there is a considerable possibility that the wine has suffered, having been stored for a long time under less than proper temperature control. My experience with wines older than five years, stored in retail shops, suggests a damage factor of around 50%. If your wine merchant has a temperature controlled storage facility for older, more expensive wines, then you are fortunate; but your good fortune will come at a price. At the low end, retailers who possess such storage facilities, will charge $2 per year per bottle. So a ten year old bottle may cost ten to fourteen dollars more than the same wine in current release. If older wines are offered at the price of current release, there is a very good chance that the retailer hasn't invested in expensive temperature control. Caveat emptor. And don't think for a minute that the only weak link in the chain of wine handlers is the retail merchant. Many wholesalers also lack proper storage facilities. When you find a reliable wholesaler or retailer, join their congregation! Go To Page: 1 2
The copyright of the article Purchasing Older Wines in California Wine is owned by . Permission to republish Purchasing Older Wines in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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