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There’s Gold in Them Thar Hills


While American viticulture can be traced back to the efforts of seventeenth century Dutch immigrants (as in South Africa), what really counts is what actually worked. The early vineyards of New England failed. Success was to come almost two hundred years later and three thousand miles west.

The oldest continually producing vineyard in the U.S. was planted during the California Gold Rush in picturesque Amador County in the foothills of the towering Sierra Nevada. This vineyard, called "Grandpere," was planted largely to Zinfandel, as were most others in the region. But it wasn't until the seventh decade of our century that the Sierra vineyards began to produce wine that attracted widespread attention. Wineries in fabled Napa and Sonoma Counties began purchasing Sierra Foothills grapes for their richly flavored Zinfandels. New wineries began sprouting like flowers in Springtime. Today, spectacular wines flow from these venerable vineyards.

The new Sierra Foothills appellation first attracted my attention when a Lava Cap (El Dorado County) Zinfandel walked away with top honors in a recent blind tasting of a dozen top California Zins. Lava Cap's Petite Sirah is equally impressive. Hard on the heels of the Lava Cap was a blended Zinfandel by Renwood (Amador County). In a previous blind tasting of California Chardonnays, Stevenot Sierra Foothills Chardonnay (Amador County) walked away with the honor of best value - a steal at $9.95.

The Sierra Foothills region is an enigma. Located three to four thousand feet above the heat of the Central Valley, it enjoys a viticultural climate almost equal to Oakville, in the middle of Napa Valley. Look for a flood of high quality wines to flow from this region in the years ahead. As a matter of fact, they're already in barrel.

This Spring will see the eighth annual El Dorado Passport Weekend, a lavish affair of wine tasting and fabulous food, sponsored by the seventeen wineries of the El Dorado Winery Association. The wines will be tasted at the various member wineries and will include horizontal and vertical tastings of Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Riesling, Meritage, Port, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Canelli, Viognier, and other Italian and French varietals. Foods will run the gamut from lamb, port, tri-tip, gourmet sausages, elk, pheasant, duck, shrimp, prawns, pates, quiches, pasta, tapas, and sushi to chocolate desserts served with Sierra Port. The cost is $50 per person and information is available by calling (800) 306-3956. The Passport Weekends will occur on April 10-11 and April 17-18.

The copyright of the article There’s Gold in Them Thar Hills in California Wine is owned by Alan Boehmer. Permission to republish There’s Gold in Them Thar Hills in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

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