The term "meritage" (rhymes with "heritage") was coined in 1988 when a group of California vintners held a contest to find a suitable descriptive name for what had been previously called "the Bordeaux blend." Since these Cabernet blends might contain less than 75% Cabernet, they couldn't use the varietal name and had to be called "red table wines." So the Meritage Association was founded to give name and definition to American wines made in the Bordeaux style. To use the name "meritage," a red wine must meet several criteria and be composed of two or more of the eight sanctioned grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Gros Verdot, Carmenere and St. Macaire.
Meritage wines typically represent the finest products of the wineries which produce them. Some wineries actually use the term in their labelling: Franciscan, Flora Springs, Jekel, Kendall-Jackson, Raymond and Round Hill, for example. Others use proprietary names, such as Opus One, Insignia, Cardinale, Dominus, Assemblage, Isosceles, Tapestry, and Quintessence. Opus One, the original "meritage" wine, continues to use the term "red table wine" on its label.
In California, a typical Meritage blend would consist roughly of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Some wineries add small amounts of Petit Verdot or Malbec1. Here's what these components are believed to contribute:
Cabernet Sauvignon: an almost complete, sturdy base wine
Merlot: Roundness and softness
Cabernet Franc: deeper color, complexity and structure
Petit Verdot: perfume
Malbec: body
The differences between meritage wines and pure Cabernet Sauvignon are blurred by U. S. labelling regulations. Many wines labelled Cabernet Sauvignon contain small amounts of Merlot or Cabernet Franc. So unless the label specifies that it's made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, we really can't be sure. However, when a Cabernet is seriously blended, the label will often give the percentages of the components.
It's been our experience that California Cabernet Sauvignon can stand on its own only when it's made from the very best fruit. Otherwise, it benefits from artful blending.
1 In California, Malbec is also called Negrette.
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