King of Wines, Wine of Kings: A Fresh Look at California Nebbiolo
We were surprised to find that all our California examples except one appeared to follow the Italian model and were quite uncharacteristic of what we have come to expect from California wineries. Most were products of wineries specializing in Italian varietals and sold by the wineries directly, since there is no present consumer demand for California Nebbiolo. That consideration allows winemakers to move in new directions stylistically, free from market influences. Italian styled wines, whether from California or Italy, are designed to complement food. Buying these wines is like buying half a jigsaw puzzle. The other half is supplied by the food. Italian styled wines need the complement of food.
Jim Moore is one California's most seasoned winemakers and originator of the La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi line of Italian styled wines from the Robert Mondavi Winery. His L'Uvaggio di Giacomo 'Il Leopardo' Nebbiolo 2000 ($20) clearly displays the Italian style. True to varietal character, Il Leopardo is garnet in color and displays a lovely, fresh, light, clean dusty cherry nose. We found it lean, very dry, and with bright acids and light but noticeable tannins. The fruit flavors follow the nose. Absolutely splendid wine with full flavored soft-ripened cheeses.
We found Enotria Nebbiolo Mendocino 1999 ($14)a bit fuller bodied than Il Leopardo. This wine is a product of Monte Volpe, which is known for offering a range of excellent, well-priced Italian styled wines. The Enotria Nebbiolo offers notes of spearmint and cedar in addition to the expected cherry flavors in a round and satisfying wine.
Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards offers a range of Italian varietal wines under the Mandolina label. These wines are artfully crafted by the legendary Central Coast winemaker Daniel Gehrs. The Mandolina Nebbiolo 2000 Santa Barbara County ($24) could easily pass for a Barolo costing twice as much. We found lovely bright cherry flavors, enhanced by note of anise.
The wines described above appear to pursue a common model based on Piemontese Nebbiolo wines. But is it not possible that a particular varietal might yield different but equally satisfying results when grown in different locations? What Italian Primitivo, for example would compare to California's finest Zinfandels? Does the Viognier grape do less well in California than in the vineyards of Condrieu? Different, to be sure. So is it possible that the Piemontese model works better in Italy than in California? Might California winemakers craft a
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