THE GRAPE
In its native soil the Nebbiolo grape produces wines that are among the world's longest lived. We like to drink California Cabernet Sauvignon no earlier than 5 years after the vintage. Bordeaux reds need much longer, typically 10 years. But Barolo should be left alone for 15-20 years! This is due to the high acidity and firm tannins that always inform this wine. Lesser bottlings of Piemontese Nebbiolo, such as Nebbiolo d'Alba, will mature much faster, but will never reach the depth of expression we find in the great Barolos and Barbarescos.
The Nebbiolo grape is surprisingly thin skinned, like Pinot Noir, and its product is a garnet or brick colored juice that belies its strong tannins. Nebbiolos from the Piedmont are in some ways stylistically opposite to California wines, lacking the plush mouth-filling fruitiness and moderate acids that characterize most California red wines. An added complication is the fact that around 95% of the wines purchased in California are intended to be consumed within two weeks' time, not laid down for a decade or more.
The question remains: Can Nebbiolo grapes be successfully grown in California? And will the resulting wines follow the Piemontese model, requiring long ageing? Or can we produce successful wines in the California style with this finicky grape?
THE ITALIAN MODEL
Our Suite 101.com tasting panel chose three Barolos from the splendid 2000 and 2001 vintages and one from the 1998 vintage to use as models. They represented price points from $40 to $75 and all have been rated at 92 points or above. They were:
1998 Mauro Veglio "Arborina"
2000 Elio Grasso "Vigna Chiniera"
2001 Azelia San Rocco
2000 Pira "Cannubi"
We found these wines very similar in style. As expected, the most expensive example (Pira) offered the greatest complexity, greatest depth of layered fruit, and wonderful spice component along with bright acids and chewy tannins. Clearly, a connoisseur's wine.
