Thanksgiving Day Wines


© Alan Boehmer

The feast of the year is almost upon us. We want every detail to be special. This is the time for fancy molded salads, for unusual relishes, and above all - for American foods.

Thanksgiving Day in the United States is really two holidays in one. It's a time to celebrate and remember our national heritage, and more importantly, a time to render thanks for all the blessings we enjoy, both publically and personally.

The choice of wines to serve with a traditional Thanksgiving dinner always seems to present problems. First, consider the wide range of flavors the wines will have to complement: sweet potato dishes, bittersweet cranberries, savory stuffings, a plethora of vegetable dishes, salads of every description, and of course, the turkey itself. No single wine can possibly be pressed into such service.

We'll start with the appetizers. Here's your chance to savor America's exceedingly fine sparkling wines. If you're watching the budget, try Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley Brut ($8). It's delicious, and a bargain. Or opt for one of California's really fine sparkling wines, such as Iron Horse or Schramsberg. Gruet Brut New Mexico is certainly worth a try if you can obtain it.

With the turkey, savory stuffing, and mashed potatoes: This is easy. Since these flavors lie in the middle of the food spectrum, a variety of wines will do nicely; light red, flavorful white, and pink. Here are my picks - naturally, all-American:

WHITE
Wild Horse Malvasia Bianca Monterey County. This beauty is crisp, complex, and flavorful to complement the savory stuffing, while not overpowering the delicate turkey meat.

Adelaida Pavanne (Chenin Blanc) San Luis Obispo County. The slightly sweet edge of this lovely wine will beautifully complement the flavors of the turkey and stuffing. This may well be one of America's best Chenin Blancs.

PINK
Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare. This is one of my favorite pink wines. It's not at all sweet, but minerally and complex. If you prefer something a little sweeter, try Beringer White Zinfandel.

RED
Light reds are best here. No Cabernet or Merlot. Sorry. A good Grenache would be first choice, but they are hard to find. J. Lohr Valdiguie Monterey would do very well. If you opt for the archetypical American red wine - Zinfandel - choose a lighter, elegant style such as Dry Creek Zinfandel Sonoma County or Rosenblum Zinfandel Contra Costa.

As for the side dishes, you're on your own. If you serve a cranberry relish, the red wines we suggested will do well. If you go for a traditional gravy or other savory sauce, a Pinot Noir could be considered.

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