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California Pinot Noir Comes of Age; Bad News/ Good News - Page 2

© Alan Boehmer

California's success with this testy varietal has many interesting chapters, but recent events underscore the fervor with which these wines are being pursued by California vintners. A new AVA (American Viticultural Area, a.k.a. appellation) was created in Santa Barbara County in 2001, based largely on the enormous success of Pinot Noir in that region. The new Santa Rita Hills AVA, pictured above, is home to many of the wineries on the forefront of research and experimentation with this varietal.

Over the past decade many of the top rated California Pinots have come from the Russian River AVA in Sonoma County, but new inroads have been made by coastal regions such as Sonoma Coast, Mendocino Ridge, and the western end of the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County.

An unfortunate characteristic of California Pinots is that they have little representation in the lower tier of wine merchandising. Yes, there are under $10 bottlings. We've yet to find one that is comparable in quality to the under $10 Syrahs. One of the few exceptions is the 2002 Camelot Pinot Noir California, $7.50. Other examples are beginning to appear, but inexpensive Pinot Noirs only hint at the depth of flavor and layered complexity that this varietal is capable of delivering. Good examples of California Pinot Noir are rare below the $20 price point, but splendid ones are often found in the $25-35 range. So our advice is to skip the mid-priced Pinots and spend a few extra dollars for a memorable wine.

Here are some of our favorites:

Foley Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Rancho Santa Rosa; 14% alc., $33

Sanford Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard: 14% alc., $43

Ojai Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard; $45