Rating the Ratings

Ever wonder how professional wine tasters are able to quantify the value of a wine so deftly? Can they really distinguish a wine worth 83 points from one only qualifying for 82. Or even 79? Can we trust that a wine rated 90 points is really going to knock our socks off?

THE RATING SYSTEMS First, let us note that there are several systems of rating wines. The standard Italian system uses only three levels, based on the reports of tasting panels. The French system grades its wines according to traditional quality designations associated with the specific vineyards. Only in America has the rating of wines risen to the level of an art form. The Wine Journal's panel of professional tasters rate wines according to a 20 point system, outstanding examples carrying scores of 18 or higher.

THE 100 POINT SCALE The ratings that American and Canadian consumers most often see are those of the Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator magazines. According to this scale, wines that do not earn at least 70 points are generally not commented upon; 70-79 = good; 80-89 = very good; 90-95 = outstanding; 96-100 = superlative. Curiously, the 100 Point System corresponds to grading systems used in many schools: 70-79 = C; 80-89 = B; 90-95 = A; 96-100 = A+. Wine scoring is, in reality, stepped. The difference between 89 points and 90 probably carries more meaning than the difference between 86 and 87, since it raises the descriptive evaluation from "very good" to "outstanding."

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS REALLY MEAN? A score of 90 points means that the tasting panel really liked this particular wine. It does not mean that you will necessarily like it. The score reflects, not measurable factors, but highly subjective ones. Professional tasters bring to their task their individual personal preferences. Perhaps a certain taster is fond of the clear, fruity style associated with Dry Creek Zinfandels; but another likes the spicy, peppery quality associated with Paso Robles. Many judges favor opulent, highly extracted flavors over discipline, moderation, and balance. This, in spite of evidence that leaner, more balanced styles lead to ageworthiness. This practice has surely been true of the ratings of California Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon; perhaps less true of Chardonnay, where too much of a good thing is often evident.

Another factor, not often considered, is the position of a given wine in the tasting order. One wonders whether the score of a wine might be influenced by how many other wines had preceded it in the tasting order.

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