Tha fact that Sauvignon Blanc continues to be grown in the U.S. is something of a minor miracle, since the average price per ton is currently well below a thousand dollars; Chardonnay can bring up to three times that price!
What is it about Sauvignon Blanc that commends it to today's wine drinkers? First, consider that Sauvignon Blanc has more than one personality. Grown in different regions, it produces vastly different wines.
The prototype of all Sauvignon Blanc (some are beginning to call it Sauvignon) is the wonderful crisp white wine from Bordeaux, formerly called Graves, now known as Pessac-Leognan. These expensive beauties are the white wines produced by the chateaux of Bordeaux, also known for doing pretty well with Sauvignon's red cousin, Cabernet. The best Sauvignons of Bordeaux are rich, complex, minerally, and very dry; they'll set you back at least $40 and the best ones weigh in around a hundred dollars. Sauvignon Blanc is also grown in the Loire region, where it produces very delicious and less expensive wines, such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.
Contrast white Bordeaux with the Sauvignons of California. Typical California Sauvignon is fruity, medium bodied, and dry; although many inexpensive versions are being made with a bit of residual sugar to tempt the casual wine drinker, mask some deficits, or perhaps to compete with California Chardonnay, which also often contains some residual sugar. Unlike Chardonnay, California Sauvignon Blanc is usually made in stainless steel and rarely comes in contact with expensive new oak. The wines are priced accordingly. The average price of U.S. Sauvignon Blanc stands currently at $8.50, compared to Chardonnay's $13. Perfectly acceptable Sauvignons can be found at a $5-6 price point.
But before you run out and pick up a fine Pessac to see just how terrific Sauvignon can be, or swing by your local retailer to take advantage of the great bargains available in U.S. products, consider a third alternative:
If white Bordeaux didn't exist, surely the world's standard bearer for Sauvignon would be New Zealand. As noted in past articles, New Zealand lies squarely in the most favorable latitude for wine growing (Australia lies too far north, except for the south coast). And, surprise, New Zealand's well-deserved reputation rests primarily upon its outstanding Sauvignon Blancs. How outstanding? Of the eight highest rated non-French Sauvignon Blancs from the current vintage, six are from New Zealand, two from California. New Zealand Sauvignons are typically crisp, minerally, herbal, and complex. Descriptors such as "pea" are commonly used. They're more expensive than most California Sauvignons, but a lot less than French, averaging around $17 for the best examples.
