California’s Mystery Grape - conclusion


© Alan Boehmer

Second of two parts

Most of California's pre-Prohibition vineyards were planted to Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. No one seems quite sure where either grape originated, although it appears nearly certain that they both are European varietals. Recent information strongly suggests a Croatian or Slovenian origin for Zinfandel. The origin of California Petite Sirah is more difficult to trace because more than one varietal is grown under that name. The top contender for the honor of being "the real Petite Sirah" seems to be the Durif grape from southern France.

In any case, don't confuse Petite Sirah with Syrah, an unrelated varietal. Petite Sirah makes one of the world's most full-bodied red wines. They are typically described as "inky-black," "thick," and "chewy." Originally planted throughout California, Petite Sirah vineyards have seen a steady decline in acreage since 1961, when the "noble" French varietals began their rise to prominence in California. Acreage planted to Petite Sirah has declined from 14,500 acres in 1976 to only 2,481 acres in 1995. Petite Sirah's unpopularity as a premium varietal was furthered by its use as a base wine for "California Burgundy," and other generic red wines. But when grown in the best regions, it is capable of yielding delicious, full-bodied wines with long-term cellaring potential. Recent Petite Sirahs have garnered up to 93 points on the 100 point scales of the Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast magazines; about a half dozen in current release carry ratings of 90 points (outstanding) or above.

The top growing areas for premium Petite Sirah are northern San Luis Obispo County, Livermore Valley, and the Sierra Foothills; some very good products have come from Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino Counties also.

Our top picks:

*David Bruce 1996 Petite Sirah Paso Robles Shell Creek Vineyard $18

Turley 1995 Petite Sirah Napa Valley Hayne Yineyard (91 pts) $30

Stags' Leap Winery 1994 Petite Sirah Napa Valley (90 pts) $22

Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Durif

Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah

Bogle 1996 Petite Sirah California (WE:91 pts) $10

David Bruce 1996 Petite Sirah Central Coast (90/83 pts) $15

Concannon 1994 Reserve Petite Sirah Livermore Valley (89 pts) $20

Rosenblum Petite Sirah

Markham Petite Sirah Napa Valley $16

Beaulieu Vineyard 1995 Petite Sirah Napa Valley Signet Collection (88 pts)

Foppiano Petite Sirah Mendocino County

* Wine Spectator - 93 points; Wine Enthusiast - 93 points. Highest rated California Petite Sirah on record.

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