Drip irrigation can save up to 70-percent over conventional sprinklers. Because drip irrigation only covers a relatively small part of the soil’s surface, weed growth is also reduced. Drip systems can be retrofitted to replace existing sprinkler systems, and can easily be automated by hooking the system into conventional valves and timers.
The components for a drip system are inexpensive and, possibly best of all, simple to install. I converted a traditional sprinkler system to drip, utilizing the existing pipes. All I did was replace the traditional sprinkler heads with rubber tubing and individual drip emitters. Most “spaghetti” tubing is one-quarter or one-eighth inches in diameter, and is sold in inexpensive rolls. Emitters vary as to how much water is released.
About the biggest problem with the system is maintenance. Due to hard water and debris, emitters often clog. I always have to have extra emitters and tubing on hand to replace clogged ones. Sometimes, all it takes is a little investment; other times replacement is required. Either way, the drip system still saves an immense amount of time and water!
Besides drip irrigation systems, so-called drip hybrids are also popular today. These hybrids don’t save as much water as straight drip systems, but they still waste considerably less than traditional sprinkler systems. Examples of hybrids include: bubblers, micro-sprays, dripperlines and misters.
· Bubblers are most often used for shrubs and trees. With their higher discharge rates, they have short watering cycles.
· Micro-Spray is the suggested method of irrigating when low volume overhead irrigation is desired. Groundcovers like iceplant are often irrigated with micro-spray emitters.
· Dripperline is best suited for watering closely spaced plants, while misters are ideal for hanging baskets and creating humidity. You can get as simple or fancy as you like.
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