Mardi Gras in Cajun Country

People and businesses in south Louisiana return to everyday routines as another hectic Mardi Gras season ends. The official state holiday represents a traditional last chance for partying before the fasting, penance, and prayers of the pre-Easter 40-day Lenten period. Not all Cajuns practice the Catholic faith, nor do all residents of Acadiana consider "Fat Tuesday" as a significant social event, but the holiday has a vast impact on the region. Krewes, parades, colorful costumes, king cakes, capuchons (pointed hats), masks, beads, elegant balls, and informal dances color the Mardi Gras scene from largest city to smallest hamlet in south Louisiana.

Although the spectacular carnival festivities of New Orleans are the epitome of Mardi Gras, smaller ceremonies with somewhat more family-oriented traditions are held in several communities throughout rural Acadiana. "La Courir (koo-ree') de Mardi Gras" is one of the unique Cajun customs observed in some parts of south Louisiana. The centuries-old tradition is believed to have medieval roots as a festival of begging. Costumed horseback riders go around the nearby countryside to gather ingredients for a large meal. Sounds like a simple description, doesn't it? There's a little more to the Mardi Gras rides than that, however, and they've attracted an influx of visitors to join the fun in recent years.

Courir celebrations are held in small Acadiana communities such as Mamou, Basile, Church Point, and Eunice. Once considered a rite-of-passage for Cajun boys, participants have traditionally been all males but a few recent courirs have included female riders. The masked equestrians are usually accompanied by at least one wagon loaded with musicians and lots of refreshments (beer or hard liquor and a sausage-like food called "boudin" are the usual staples). The leader of the courir is "la captaine" and he usually wears a distinctive colorful cape. Following specific instructions, the riders approach various neighbors who anticipate their high-spirited early morning visit. Courir tradition requires the riders to dismount and perform a dance in exchange for a donation in the form of food or money. The gathered contributions go towards a communal meal (usually a stew-like gumbo) prepared later that day at a designated site in the community. The modern-day courir is mostly ceremonial, but Cajun ancestors probably did actually depend on the rice, sausage, roux (browned flour and oil), onions, and other shared items for their Mardi Gras celebrations.

The highlight of the courir involves the main ingredient for the gumbo: the chickens...not the de-feathered, neatly wrapped supermarket variety, but live poultry which the riders chase and capture! This ritual has become a tourist favorite and some amateur Cajun comedians put on a good show for the cameras. Courir events often span two or three hours and might encompass a radius of twenty to thirty miles. The somewhat bedraggled riders parade through the community's main street as they return to join the other celebrants. Some costumed non-riding participants re-enact the medieval beggars' tradition and entreat amused onlookers for monetary donations of "cinq sous" (five cents). As with most celebrations in Cajun country, the food, fun, music, and dancing usually last well into the evening of the courir.

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