Oscar Wilde, the great Irish playwright, in his last term at Oxford, declared that reformation of dress was of far greater importance than reformation of religion. The habit of tight-lacing, so prevalent in his time, was, he considered both unhealthy and unattractive. He believed that it was:
a great error to imagine that an unnaturally small waist gives an air of grace, or even slightness to the whole figure. Its effect, as a rule, is simply to exaggerate the width of the shoulder and the hips... Fashion's motto is: "Il faut souffir pour etr belle" but the motto or art and of commsense is "Il faut etre bete pour souffir". 1
Changes in society's attitudes in the last years of the century would lead to Oscar Wilde's wish being realised. During the 1880's and 90's women experienced a new sense of freedom. More and more women entered the workforce as clerical workers, teachers, secretaries, shop assistances and nurses.
Some were even studying at university. Colleges for women at Oxford and Cambridge and a number of academic girl's schools were well-established in England.
More women were playing sport. Tennis and cycling were among the more popular activities.
New ideas filled the air. The 'New Woman', intelligent and independent, were attracted to these new notions, such as socialism, feminism and Fabianism (The Fabian Society had a high proportion of women members).
These changes were reflected in the fashions of the day. Clothes were becoming gradually healthier and more comfortable. Tight-lacing, for example, although popular for many years, eventually became unfashionable.
This was a cruel practice which actually killed some women. It caused the internal organs to be forced permanently out of position, resulting in serious illness which sometimes caused dealth. The lower ribs, too, grew out of place and stuck into the lungs. As Mrs. Oliphant observed: 'the majority of the costumes adopted by humankind are cunningly devised upon principles which secure more or less constant discomfort to the wearers'.2
Heavy trailing skirts, pointed high-heel shoes which were too narrow for the feet, and the habit of turning the toes out, taught by dancing-masters, (which caused weak ankles and flat feet) were other uncomfortable practices common in these years.
The Rational Dress Society, founded in 1881 by Mrs King and Viscountess Haberton, campaigned vigorously for clothes reform, Mrs Oscar Wilde being one of their more famous advocates. The members of this society strongly disapproved of:
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