At the Drop of a Hat


© Paul Ruschmann

It started with a lost hat.

After checking into my Waikiki hotel, I discovered that I'd left my hat on the airport shuttle van. I declared it missing in action, and put finding a replacement to my to-do list.

The next day, the Kona wind brought clouds and rain, washing out a trip to the beach. So after lunch, I hopped a motorized trolley to Hilo Hattie's, an islandwear boutique in Honolulu's industrial district, and bought a new hat. As luck may have it, I was almost next door to the Big Aloha Brewery. I'd had the beer at a Stones concert at Aloha Stadium, and liked it; and the weather showed no sign of improving. It was time for a beer.

Big Aloha was inside Sam Choy's Breakfast, Lunch & Crab (580 North Nimitz Highway; 808.545.7979), a huge warehouse converted into a restaurant. Sam Choy is one of Hawaii's best-known and most popular chefs, and he's famous for serving generous portions of island favorites. To get to "Da Brewery" (that's what the neon sign said), I nudged my way past tables arranged around a 35-foot-long sampan. The brewery was a bit quieter and less chaotic than the dining room. It was a fun place, decorated in vaguely nautical style with oddball items like a giant plastic marlin.

I sat underneath the brew tanks and tried a sampler of brewmaster Dave Campbell's handiwork. There were some pleasant surprises: Kakaako Cream Ale was a smooth and refreshing rendition of an underappreciated style rarely found outside the Northeast and Canada. Big Aloha Hefe-Weizen, unfiltered in authentic Bavarian style, had a pleasant wheat flavor with just the right amount of carbonation. Kiawe Honey Porter, brewed with local honey, was full-bodied yet gentle enough to drink in the tropics. The sampler also included Steamship Lager, a steam beer; Ehu Ale, a best bitter; and Green Bottle Lager.

Since the weather hadn't improved, I decided to turn the day into a pub crawl, using shopping center trolleys as my designated driver. I got off at the Aloha Tower, home of the westernmost outpost of the Gordon Biersch Brewing Company (1 Aloha Tower Marketplace; 808.599.4877). It's a place I'd visited on earlier trips to the islands; the German-style beer and the view from the lanai kept me coming back.

The route to the lanai led past the brew tanks and though the big, airy dining room, which, as usual, was filled with a strong aroma of fresh garlic. Outside, the rain had let up, but I decided to play it safe and sit under the covered bar, grabbing a seat just ahead of the crush of downtown office workers.

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1.   Apr 18, 2002 11:03 AM
Thanks for the especially nice comment in the editor's area.

-- posted by jerrib





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