But on May 15, 1984, Canada's Real Ale revolution began when homebrewer and beer enthusiast Paul Hadfield opened the country's first licensed brewpub overlooking the Inner Harbour. Since then, Spinnaker's Brewpub (308 Catherine Street; 250-384-6613 or 877-838-2739) has grown bigger and better. It's not just an English-style pub. There's also a restaurant where patrons can bring their children, as well as guest suites and even a gourmet store.
Spinnaker's, rated one of Canada's five best brewpubs by the Toronto Globe and Mail, offers three cask-conditioned ales, served at cellar temperatures out of beer engines imported from England. Doc Hadfield's Pale Ale, made with English malt and Northwest hops, is the house "session ale." Also on draft are Mitchell's Extra Special Bitter, and Jameson's Scottish Ale--a popular style in Victoria. Spinnaker's also serves chilled beers, including an India pale ale based on those made in Burton-on-Trent; a pale ale called Spinnaker Ale; and Raspberry Ale, a cloudy, pinkish beer that looks like a cooler and tastes delicious.
In Victoria's Old Town, not far from the famous "Blue Bridge," is Swans Pub, Restaurant and Hotel (506 Pandora Street; 250-361-3310 or 800-668-7926). In the late 1980's, Englishman Michael Williams renovated a warehouse and feed store. The old structure was such an ugly duckling that Williams called the remade version "Swans." The first floor is home to an upscale restaurant and pub, where Williams displays works of Native Canadian art from one of the largest private collections in Canada.
A pleasant way to sample the British-style ales is to sit in the sunroom that wraps around the hotel's east and south sides. The cask-conditioned offerings include Buckerfield's Bitter, a copper-colored rendition of a Best Bitter; Swans Oatmeal Stout; and Appleton Brown Ale. Chilled beers are available, too: Riley's Scotch Ale, brewed in the "wee heavy" style; Pandora Pale Ale; Arctic Ale, a light beer that's ideal for the summertime; and Old Towne Bavarian Lager.
Under British Columbia's licensing laws, grocery and convenience stores can't sell beer to go, but hotels can. Swans Hotel's beer and wine shop carries cold bottles of the house lagers and ales, as well as a variety of beers from across the province.
If Spinnaker's and Swans link British and Canadian beer traditions, Victoria's two other brewpubs represent the new generation of brewing. Harbour Canoe Club (450 Swift Street; 250-361-1940) bills itself as Canada's only marine brewpub, offering facilities for boaters as well as kayaking and canoeing packages. This two-level pub, once the City Lights municipal hydro plant, has high wooden ceilings, plenty of windows, and skylights that give it an upbeat atmosphere. Since it opened two years ago, it's been popular with the city's young professionals.
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