Doing The Tourist Thing...Again: Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau in Bavaria, Germany


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Neuschwanstein is perhaps the most famous castle in the world. Certainly it qualifies as the most recognizable. Theme parks, cartoonists, and fairy tale illustrators have copied its likeness countless of times. As Bavaria's top tourist icon and attraction, a traveler could think of many reasons to skip out on a visit to the castle: heavy crowding, long lines, kitschy souvenir shops, just to name a few. Yet, something about Neuschwanstein beckons you to take a peek. Maybe it's due to the castle's curious combination of romantic grandeur, scenic vistas, and absolute excess. The dedicated Monty Python fan might make a pilgrimage just to see the locations used in the Lost German Episode (coincidentally performed in English). Whatever the reason, it's a fascinating place to indulge in doing the tourist thing. So pick up some postcards, take a look around, and check out this world-renown tourist icon.

Neuschwanstein rests high above Ludwig's childhood home of Hohenschwangau. The lofty summit upon which Neuschwanstein resides appealed to Ludwig's fantastical imagination, and the castle stands as a manifestation of both his extraordinary dreams and reckless folly. Conceived by Ludwig, in collaboration with theatre designer Christian Jank, Neuschwanstein offers tribute to Wagner's operatic world, while invoking the spirit of German medieval fortresses of old. Though the present structure took seventeen years to build, few people realize that the castle remains incomplete, with only one-third of the interior was completed. Ludwig himself resided in the castle for a mere 172 days. Near the gift shop-the one located in the castle-you can see renderings of the wholly envisioned Neuschwanstein as well as plans for the never-built castle Falkenstein. Judging by the renderings, Falkenstein would have dwarfed Neuschwanstein in both size and style.

Pictures of Neuschwanstein belie its magnitude. One might imagine dozens upon dozens of rooms inside the castle, when in actuality very few exist. What interiors were completed showcase the disparate tastes of Ludwig, from the Byzantine throne room and Romanesque apartments, to a neo-gothic Singer's Hall and Wagnerian inspired stalactite cave. Opulent, ornate, and often overwhelming, Neuschwanstein's interiors assault the eye with stunning craftsmanship and astonishing murals. Clearly minimalism did not appeal to Ludwig. For visitors wishing to indulge in more than the regular 35-minute guided tour, I suggest visiting in September. During this month, the castle stages concerts featuring works primarily by Wagner in the Singer's Hall. Though I admit I am not much of a Wagner fan, I can think of no better setting for his music.

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