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Carving Life Out of Limestone at Dazu

© Jennifer Overhulse-King

Upon completion of the Three Gorges Dam on the Yangtze River, the municipality of Chongqing, China, with a population of over 30 million people, will become the world's largest inland port city. And that ain't all. . .

Chongqing
Chongqing (Twin Fortune) is a classic example of a city built on diversity. It is an ancient entity, composed equally of its parts, narrow streets, sloping alleys, multi-lane highways, modern office towers, ancestral homesteads, religious centers, academic institutions, Chongqing's history as China's WWII war capital and its role as "just plain old home" to millions of people. In the more than 2000 years of Chongqing's history, these have been just a few of the reasons people visit this city time and again.

The last decades have brought new technology and growth to Chongqing. Modern highways have been built and archaeological restoration projects are underway in this part of the Sichuan province. So, after tourists tire of the city lights, restaurants and cruises along the Yangtze, there are other sights to see. Unfortunately, the modernization that has occurred in Chongqing proper has not extended along the road to Dazu.

Dazu
About 170 km or 3 hours car ride from Chongqing lies Dazu County. Dazu County is dotted with Buddhist cave temples that make the visit well worth a bumpy car ride and a little dust. The Dazu Grottoes are one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in China.

There are an estimated 50,000 stone sculptures carved into the limestone mountain faces at over 40 sites in Dazu County. Most of the sculptures are concentrated at 2 main locations, Beishan (North Hill or Summit) and Baodingshan (Precious Hill or Summit).

Beishan
Beishan is located about 1 1/4 miles to the north-northwest of Dazu proper. Archaeologists estimate the first carvings were started here around 892, during the late Tang Dynasty. The active period of carving continued at Beishan for roughly 250 years, extending through the Wu Dai, Five Dynasties, Ten Kingdoms periods and finally ended during the Song period.

The 250 years of carving at Beishan were extremely productive. Over 10,000 statues were completed during that time. Most of the scenes portrayed on the cave walls at Beishan are religious in nature. It is not unusual to find Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian teachings depicted side by side in many places. One of the most interesting religious sculptures is the 1,000-handed statue of the Goddess of Mercy, otherwise known as Guanyin or Bodhisattva in Buddhist teachings. This statue is brightly painted and her arms fan out behind her like the tail of a peacock. Each hand is carved holding a different musical instrument, including some similar to modern day flutes, bells and cymbals.