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VICTORIAN WHITE-WORK

© Joan Lawrence

Ask any young lady between the ages of ten to thirteen the question, "What are you preparing for your trousseaus?" I know my ten-year-old niece Lauren would answer,"my what?" That's because the year just happens to be 1999. Now, had this been the year of 1899, Lauren would answer, "I am just finishing some hand towels with some French and Mosaic designs. Look Aunt Joan, I shall incorporate my monogram directly in the center, just as it was taught to me today." Unfortunately, white-work is a lost art form as we know it. However, by collecting, we can certainly imagine all the love that went into the particular piece of fabric.

White-work is the name for fabric made kind of lacy-like with holes and then decorated with white embroidery and/or needlework. It was really quite a simple idea, and required just a piece of white cloth, a needle and white thread, and perhaps a pair of scissors or something to punch holes with. The rest was up to the skill, imagination and patience of the actual worker.

This craft was made popular during the Victorian Era, and was taught to young ladies by their mothers and schoolteachers, for their wedding trousseaus. Unfortunately, this art form no longer exists.

The choice of fabric, the style and patterns of holes, and the embroidery of the stitches and designs probably were dictated by either national or village customs and traditions, or by commercial designers for specific marketing purposes. The choice could have been completely up to the worker as a form of her personal and creative expression.

Make a note to yourself about a particular feature of an interesting piece of white-work that you might acquire. Note the similarities and differences. Then share the information with other linen collectors. Somehow, someone, somewhere will be able to match a name and place with a specific piece you might own!

I've put together a list of definitions that might help you identify your particular piece of white-work.

APPENZELL: White-work of the nineteenth and early twentieth century named for a canton in Eastern Switzerland. Appenzell has romantic designs, such as cherubs, in satin and running stitches.

AYSHIRE: Early nineteenth century and produced in Scotland and Ireland. Embroidered in satin stitch and may have buttonhole stitching along the edges.

DRESDEN: Eighteenth century German and Danish, and some of the most exquisite white-work known. Dense design areas may be fine fabric applique or unusual feathery embroidery.

FRENCH: Mid to late nineteenth century, and noted to be a very sophisticated formal floral design. Also embelished with embroidery and needle lace which is inserted into the cutwork design.

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