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Dwarf Bearded Iris: - Page 2

© Gary Buckley

It is best to remember that a tight clay soil may keep the rhizomes too wet and should have organic matter such as composted pine bark, sea weed; they love sea weed, incorporated to improve drainage. ( end harp )

Back to the light factor, in harsh light climates such as I now find myself growing in, these iris will appreciate partial shade over summer.

Often over the past few years I have noticed that the ones in partial shade do better than their brothers and sisters grown in full sun.

Shedding old patterns of growing is the key to success. A keen watchful eye and a little choiceless attention; goes a long way I find.

Manures such as dynamic lifter will work if added to your bed well in advance, though I don't recommend this for established iris beds.

Here in Geelong, Australia, I find that a side dressing in mid August of Rhododendron and Azalea food is most advantageous.

Depending on your growing conditions, these can be left in situ for three to four years or until the fan becomes too crowded.

A lot of dwarfs suffer over summer as folks think that watering after flowering is the wrong thing to do. As a general rule of thumb, do not allow your rhizomes to dry out. Give them a good deep drink about every six to seven days.

If you are in a heat wave situation, with endless days of excessive heat, use your growing data base of observations on the plants you grow; and water more often.

Another important, nay critical ingredient for bloom is winter frosts. No chill factor over winter will only lead to disappointment of the occasional flower throw.

Future articles will help those of you who do not have a chill factor, decide which Iris for you might do well.

Please find the time if you are interested in Iris to read the first article: Bearded Iris http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/alpi...

Until next week, cheers and happy gardening - Gary.

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