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A Trek Through Paradise

© James Soos

Early May, springtime in the Chugach Mountains, and I felt the urge to see what Alaska was all about. I moved to Anchorage the prior September. However, settling into a new area, a new job and apprehension over Alaska’s untamed wilderness hindered her beckoning to come out and play. Call me a wimp, but I have no desire to become bear fodder in this lifetime.

After pouring over maps, the Turnagain Trail seemed like the perfect choice for one seeking solitude in the Anchorage vicinity. But, that’s not difficult to find in Alaska. No matter where you are in this beautiful land, a picturesque scene is just a short walk, ride or drive away.

Turnagain Trail wanders along a nine mile course parallel to Turnagain Arm, the southern most of two bodies of water cradling the Anchorage Bowl that drain their glacial fed rivers and streams into Cook Inlet. It is also one of the first snow-free trails to kick off an Alaskan hiking season.

The day was warm and hazy as I donned my daypack. Paranoia immediately set in as I took my first steps onto the well-worn trail. Of course, signs announcing that I was entering bear country did not help alleviate the tension I felt. I found a decent walking stick on the ground within the first 200 feet and drove forward, singing aloud to declare my presence to those creatures that just might have it in their mind that I appeared to be a tasty morsel. I’m sure if any wayward beast was watching from a hidden vantage point, it was snickering at this foolish human’s antics. What can I say to defend myself? … nothing… blush.

Close to mile one, there is a wonderful view of Turnagain Arm, Mt. Susitna (a dormant volcano with its rounded summit carved out by glaciers), Denali (or Mt. McKinley for you non-Alaskan’s), and north facing slopes on the opposite side of the Arm- their Hemlock forests dark green and beautiful. I sat down on a bench installed on the vista and drank it all in. This is what I came to see. It took strength to tear myself away from the view, but somehow I managed. Careful steps to avoid the numerous piles of moose droppings littering the outcropping placed me back on the trail to seek more of what I had just witnessed.

It didn’t take long for my feet to refuse further travel when I heard loud footsteps just ahead of me on a hillside. That fight or flight response grabbed hold and I thought it best to opt for the latter. A hasty twenty-yard retreat gave me enough breathing room to assess the situation further. I just knew I was about to become a snack for some large hairy bruin. Curiosity got the better of me though and I inched forward along the trail, scanning the area for the beast I was about to succumb to. As I rounded a small bend, I found myself in a staring contest with a very large moose. What to do?… A moose is not to be taken lightly. Even though cute and adorable, the species is also big and mean. They have no qualms about chasing us human kind down and dishing out a thorough trouncing when they are a) annoyed b) disgruntled c) protecting their young d) any combination of a, b, or c. Slowly, my feet carried me forward while I kept a keen eye out for any hint that the moose was displeased with my presence. It didn’t seem to care as it stood it’s ground and watched me stroll by. What a relief… If I were to be stomped to death by a raging moose, or gnawed upon by some other beast, my wife would be sure to kill me. I was determined to not let that happen.

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