Are we domesticating Kenya's wildlife
"What would happen if they stopped feeding them?"
"I don't know, but it won't happen. They do it for the tourists. People come to Samburu because they know they will see leopard. And if the tourists want this, we must give it."
"But we would rather not see the animals at all than see them in a fake environment."
"Maybe," he said. "But many wouldn't."
I stood, staring at the leopard, contemplating what Francis had said. Was tourism helping to found a whole new breed of carnivore in Kenya's national parks? And was this destroying their natural instincts and making them dependent on humans? Or are they just adapting to their new environment - one that involves game lodges, tourists in their thousands, and ready prepared meat hanging off trees?
This particular park, Samburu, is one of the more remote of Kenya's parks. Situated quite far North East of Nairobi, it lies slightly off the tourist trail. And it has been further isolated in recent years due to attacks by Somali rebels, making people less willing to visit. But yet, enough were still coming here to change the habits of the animals. According to rumour, many animals in other parks have started hunting at different times of day to avoid having an audience of safari vans at every kill.
That hadn't happened yet in Samburu, but on our last morning in the park, we were driving across the Oryx Plains when we spotted a single lioness fifty yards away. It soon became apparent that she had her eye on the zebra and oryx. Slowly she moved nearer, biding her time, stalking the group. Patiently she'd wait behind bushes, reanalysing her route before setting off again. We watched for about ten minutes, or more, before she even came near the roadside, by which time half a dozen vans of various shapes and sizes had turned up. One van even overtook us and parked directly in the lion's path.
This put an end to the hunt. Not only was the lion no longer able to see her prey, but also the influx of vans seemed to signal the oryx of the danger, and they became more aware of the lioness's presence.
Okay, we got an amazing view of a lion hunting - probably one of the most searched for sights on safari. But, in return the lion had to do without breakfast, which in the near desert of Samburu is
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