It is rare that I leave trip planning to others. I'm not saying I am a control freak, but I usually like to know a little something about where I am going. A few weekends ago, after a long and busy week, I hopped in the car with four friends with only the vaguest idea of where we were headed. "Pottery shopping in Soufflenheim," said the driver, to which I replied, "okay, sounds good."
It therefore came as a total surprise when we left Germany, crossing into the Alsatian region of France. Soufflenheim sounded like it was in Germany. Ooops, silly me, I thought!? I didn't dare mention my mistake to the others in the car, however. I would never hear the end of it if I uttered so much as a peep.
The Alsatian region of France, like neighboring Lorraine, might best be known for how often it changed ownership between Germany and France. The region alternated sovereignty to both Germany and France throughout history, Alsace finally became part of France in 1918 at the end of World War I. The influence of both German and French cultural traditions is evident today. Locals, most of whom address you in French, can also respond in German.
Listening to the more experienced pottery shoppers in the car, I learned that Soufflenheim, France has been home to pottery for centuries. The Emperor Barberrouse granted Soufflenheim's potters the right to extract their clay from the Haguenau forest, a right that persists to this day. Today, there are some 20 workshops in Soufflenheim that create the unique Alsatian pieces, most notably in the colors of blue, ochre, green, yellow, and brown, all with flourished hand-painted designs. Despite the beauty of the ceramics, it would be a mistake to think of them as decorative objects. All the pieces are cast to be used, meaning that even the most decorative casserole dish can be used in the oven.
We had no difficulty in finding the shops once we arrived in Soufflenheim. The centrally located tourist office supplies visitors with maps indicating the area workshops, or you can follow the workshop signs that direct you into the shops. Since we didn't have specific objectives, apart from finding restrooms, we meandered our way along the main street that cuts through the village. Having lived in Germany for near three years, it was fascinating to see how the town reflected its French/German history in just the building architecture. It reminded me of where I live, but not overtly.