You’ve decided to go. Perfect. Now pause and take a deep breath before you go running for your board. Relax your eyes on the surf-break and take it all in at once. Take note of where the biggest group of people is sitting. That usually indicates the best place to catch the wave (the peak), but if it’s too crowded, it could just indicate lack of freethinking individuals in the water. Wait for a set and see if it’s breaking better somewhere else.
Take note of what the pack is doing. If everyone’s boards are pointed in the same direction, you know you have a longshore current to deal with. Take account for that on your paddle out. If people look bored, you know that the sets are scarce. If lots of surfers are paddling back out, it means there are lots of waves to ride.
You should already know what the tides are doing. Tide books cost $1. Keep one in your car, or your board-bag, or where ever you’ll be able to check it when you check the surf. Knowing the tide once doesn’t mean much, but by consistently knowing what the tide is doing each time you surf a particular spot, you eventually accumulate relevant knowledge as to how certain tides – in-coming or out-going, high or low – effect that spot. Look out to sea and try to detemine the swell direction. Look at the tree branches and notice what the wind is doing. All these factors consistently come into play toward creating each set of conditions. When you learn to understand what factors cause what effects, you will begin to understand when the surf is going to be good even before it is. Then you’ll be there waiting for it.
Notice how many people are riding the waves. Two or more people on a wave indicates to you that the break is too crowded, and tension is probably high in water. Consider if there is somewhere else you might want to surf. When waves go un-ridden, however, you know that there are plenty of waves to be had out there. Also note how people are riding the waves, so you know whether you need to drive the line to stay ahead of the curl, or do repeated cutbacks to hold back in the pocket.
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